Journey to the End of the Earth for Beginners (Part 1)
Beyond Santiago de Compostela via the Camino Fisterra/Muxia. A four-minute read.
Arriving in Santiago de Compostela after walking several days can be a glorious feeling—and it can also leave you wanting more.
While most modern-day pilgrims end their walk in Santiago, ancient pilgrims would continue walking towards the coast of the Atlantic Ocean, to the towns of Finisterre (Fisterra in Galician), and Muxia, which are just some 50 or so more miles away.
Even in the iconic movie about the Camino de Santiago, “The Way,” the emotional highpoint is not the characters’ arrival in Santiago de Compostela.
The main character, played by Martin Sheen (Sheen traces his ancestry to Galicia, Spain), decides to continue walking and reaches Muxia, where all storylines resolve.
Catch the clip from the movie trailer where all characters reach the Atlantic Coast.
You can watch the entire movie on YouTube. It’s an authentic representation of the Camino de Santiago experience, and was filmed in various towns along the Camino Francés and Muxia.
After my 37-day hike on the Camino Francés, I took a tourist bus to Fisterra. The experience was not the same. I felt like I had missed out. I envied the pilgrims I saw walking to Fisterra.
THE COAST OF DEATH
So, after my second walk on the Camino de Santiago, I decided to continue on to the “end of the earth” — which is how ancient pilgrims regarded the Atlantic’s Costa da Morte (Coast of Death), so named because its rocky coast has caused many shipwrecks and deaths.
The Camino Fisterra and Muxia begin in front of the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.
A SPECIAL MESSAGE FROM THE UNIVERSE
On the way to Negreira, I had one of my favorite meals ever in Spain, a big pot of callos. This unassuming restaurant, Parillada Alto do Vento, in the town ofAlto do Vento, should be a foodie stop. The roaring fireplace, the wood-fired grill, and the quality of the food made this a memorable, warm and cozy winter moment on the Camino. I was genuinely sad I didn’t have time to order more from their menu.
Over lunch, a fellow pilgrim from California, Teri, showed me a book she had been reading, by international bestselling author Paolo Coelho who wrote “The Alchemist.”
Coelho discovered his life’s calling as a writer after walking 500 miles on the Camino de Santiago via the Camino Frances. A line in a page that Teri showed me deeply resonated and felt like a message for me:
“Following your dream is like learning a foreign language; you will make mistakes but you will get there in the end.” Being on the Camino can be magical like that. If you are open, the Universe conspires to send you personal signposts while on your journey.
FORESTS AND FREEWAYS
The Camino Muxia in winter is an introvert’s delight. I walked on misty trails carpeted by winter’s fallen leaves, going for hours without seeing anyone, hearing only the sounds of the forest, gurgling streams, and my footsteps.
I met Teri in the woods, and for a few hours we walked together. I’ve had some of my deepest conversations with complete strangers while walking on the Camino.
From tranquil settings, the Camino will also force you to go through the jarring experience of walking on freeways.
My big complaint about the Camino Fisterra/Muxia are some dangerous stretches of freeway, where there’s barely any shoulder to walk on.
You’ll have to be extra alert when you’re forced to walk on very narrow shoulders. Because of fog and rain, many times I had my headlamp on even in the daytime. As much as possible, I walked facing oncoming traffic.
FORK IN THE ROAD
On my third day of walking, I reached the proverbial fork in the road.
One arrow points towards Fisterra, the other to Muxia. You can also walk to Fisterra, then to Muxia, or vice versa.
I made my final choice to go straight to Muxia, enchanted by all the mysticism and legends surrounding it. I felt a spiritual pull.
Next week: Did I see the werewolf of Galicia? How pagan magic, Catholic miracles and Vakner, the Spanish werewolf all come together in mystical Muxia.
I offer a free consultation for beginners to the Camino de Santiago. Whether you’re still thinking of possibly walking your first Camino, or are already committed to doing it but need to know how to get started, e-mail me at contact@beginnersmind.life for your free consultation. Or maybe you’re thinking of being a solo traveler? E-mail me your questions!