Part 4: Burned out and Bummed out in Spain: Camino de Santiago for Beginners

Last installment of a four-part series. A six minute read.

Update: Dear Friend, By the time you read this, if time permits, I hope to be walking on the Camino Finisterre towards the Atlantic Ocean, after completing the Camino Inglés. After reaching Santiago, ancient pilgrims would continue to walk to Finisterre, which they believed to be the end of the earth. Now, back to the fourth and final installment of our series, “Burned out and Bummed out in Spain.” Parts 1 through 3, here.

Once more, the Camino had brought me to my knees, helpless and vulnerable. This time, in extreme pain, I could no longer walk. I asked a passing pilgrim for help—this woman barely looked at me and just muttered “sorry” as she rushed past me, as if I were a beggar on a busy city street.

I mustered the will to stand up and limp to the side of the road. I flagged down a woman driving an SUV. Rocio, from Andalusia, hurried to help me board her car, collected my backpack, and brought me to my hostel.

Rocio came back to my hostel the next day, and offered to help me continue. She said she would drive alongside me while I walked, until I could do no more. I was floored by her generosity of spirit. Rocio is a true trail angel.

CHANGE OF STRATEGY

Walking 100 kilometers from Sarria to Santiago is the minimum requirement for a compostela.

My time in Spain was running out. I had to change strategy right away.

I told Rocio that I planned to take a taxi to Sarria, and restart my Camino from there, by walking the last 100 kilometers. (Tip: To receive a compostela, the only requirement is to walk 100 kilometers, about 70 miles, to reach Santiago. On the Camino Francés, starting from the town of Sarria fulfills that requirement.) 

I made a sane and mature decision I was proud of. The Camino will always be there, and I would not risk permanently damaging myself for it. Walking more than 400 miles was good enough.

I arrived at Sarria. From here, I would walk only between seven to twelve very slow miles a day. This was when I started truly enjoying and savoring each day. I wished that this was how I had traveled, right from the start.

But I knew this was a lesson for me, a painful lesson of overachieving and overdoing, when in truth, slow and steady really does win the race. 

The stretch from Sarria is for me, the prettiest stage on the Camino Francés. Take it slow and easy, we are just 100 kilometers away from Santiago now.

PHYSICAL THERAPY, THE GAME CHANGER

I was still in pain, as I inched closer and closer to Santiago. In Portomarin, I saw a sign for physical therapy. I didn’t know how much it would cost, but I knew that this was something I needed to try.

I was surprised to learn how effective sports bandaging really is. This stayed snug for over a week, and relieved a great deal of pain.

After a quick inspection, the physical therapist told me that sports bandaging would help me get to Santiago. I was frankly thrilled and felt like an NBA athlete. And it worked! The very tight bandaging relieved the pain! This was a true game changer. The therapist told me to still take it easy, and to take off the bandages once I arrived in Santiago. I wondered how much I would be charged for being treated like a world-class athlete. The bill: a jaw-dropping 25 euro. Unbelievable. 

The horsemen of the Camino in Portomarin. You can actually ride a horse or bicycle to Santiago, but you need to ride or bike at least 200 kilometers to get a compostela.

FINALLY, SANTIAGO

Where it all ends. The final destination-the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. The highlight of the pilgrim’s mass is the swinging of the botafumiero, a gigantic incense holder. Apparently, this used to be how the church was fumigated, as newly-arrived pilgrims came in with all sorts of pests, diseases and odors after their long pilgrimage.

After 37 days, bandaged and bruised, both physically and mentally, I finally arrived in Santiago. My arrival felt abrupt and strangely anticlimactic. More than anything, I was relieved it was over. I collected my compostela. It was at a small chapel at the pilgrim’s office that the moment finally hit me. I cried, thankful to be still alive and in good health. I survived. I could still walk.

I was surprised to see this beam of light in the photo taken when I arrived at the Santiago cathedral.

A physical therapist in Santiago took off my bandages and examined my leg. I was one hundred percent healed, as if nothing had happened. A miracle.

Santiago is really a party town. Lots of parties broke out and I was happy to be a part of them. But all I wanted to do was to lay down, sleep as long as I wanted, and eat everything in every restaurant.

Galicia is reknown for its seafood. Santiago's food scene is superb.

I reunited with others I met on the way. Everyone lost weight! I was definitely more toned and buff with close to ten pounds lost. I felt leaner, stronger and more confident. 

HOW THE CAMINO CHANGED ME

I believe in miracles now. I am still not a practicing Catholic, but I am sure there is a greater force, call it God or the Universe or a Higher Power, that intervenes and supports us. I experienced this first hand many times on the road. A month after returning, I experienced yet another miracle— a secret prayer answered, a prayer I lit a candle for at every church I visited on the Camino. To this day, I witness miracles big and small in my own life, too many to count.

I learned to balance my drive to achieve with self-care. How I handled the Camino was pretty much how I handled my life. Shoot for very big goals and ignore pain. My “no pain, no gain” mentality is actually self-harming. That showed up, big time, during my time on the Camino. 

I am stronger, mentally and spiritually. I am more resilient in the face of adversity. I’m no longer burned out. The Camino taught me to keep getting up every morning and see for myself what surprise today’s path will bring, to treat every single day as a new adventure. It all sounds so trite, but it’s true.

FAVORITE GEAR FOR THE CAMINO

Okay, enough of the heavy stuff. Let’s talk about my favorite gear!

1. Gossamer Gear 50-liter Gorilla ultralight backpack. This backpack weighs less than two pounds but is very sturdy. I brought this to other trips after and it has held up very well! About $300 on the Gossamer Gear website.

   

2. Altra Olympus Trail Runners. I didn’t get any blisters! I really believe my shoe choice was a big factor. Altra Olympus 5’s wide toe box prevents friction. The cushioning lasted me hundreds of miles, with hardly any foot fatigue. These shoes are pricey at $170 but occasionally go on sale.

3. Darn Tough socks. Merino wool absorbs moisture quickly, and dries quickly, another factor in blister prevention. After a few hundred miles, my toes poked holes through my other socks. My Darn Toughs are still going strong, more than year after heavy use on the Camino, and seeing action on the Inca Trail in Peru. About $25 a pair at REI.

4. Ultralight daypack. The 4mUltralight daypack crumples into a ball and comes with a stuff sack. Costs less than $20 on Amazon and has lasted me for years. It performed like a champ on the Camino.

5. Portable bidet. This $10 Amazon find kept me feeling clean on the Camino. I still travel with it, though I may upgrade to an electric one soon. 

Alright. Talk soon. And remember, always try something new, keep it fresh!

I offer a free consultation for beginners to the Camino de Santiago. Whether you’re still thinking of possibly walking your first Camino, or are already committed to doing it but need to know how to get started, e-mail me at contact@beginnersmind.life for your free consultation. Or maybe you’re thinking of traveling the world solo? Send me your questions!